Mount Logan, Canada’s highest peak, rises 5,959 metres in the remote St. Elias Mountains of Yukon Territory. Its precise elevation was settled only in 1992, when a joint Geological Survey–Royal Canadian Geographical Society expedition used GPS for the first time on the mountain (Geomatica). This guide covers where it is, what makes it special, how difficult an expedition really is, and what you can expect to pay to climb it.
Last checked: 2026-07-30
Height: 5,959 m (19,551 ft) · Rank in North America: 2nd highest after Denali · Rank in Canada: Highest mountain · Mountain Range: St. Elias Mountains, Yukon Territory
Snapshot: Mount Logan at a Glance
- 5,959 m (19,551 ft) — confirmed by 1992 GPS survey (Geomatica)
- June 23, 1925, by a team led by Albert H. MacCarthy (Gripped Magazine)
- King’s Trench: non‑technical ski mountaineering, ~14–21 days on the mountain (Mountain Madness)
- Highest in Canada; second highest in North America after Denali (Explore-Share)
- Height: 5,959 m (19,551 ft)
- North American rank: 2nd highest peak after Denali
- Canadian rank: Highest mountain in Canada
- Compared to Kilimanjaro: 64 m taller
| Attribute | Value |
|---|---|
| Height | 5,959 m (19,551 ft) |
| Rank in North America | 2nd highest after Denali |
| Rank in Canada | Highest mountain |
| Mountain Range | St. Elias Mountains, Yukon Territory |
| Prominence | 5,250 m |
| First Ascent | June 23, 1925 by MacCarthy party |
| Standard Route | King’s Trench (ski mountaineering) |
| Typical Expedition Duration | 3 weeks (14–21 days on mountain) |
| Number of Summiteers (estimate) | ~500–600 total ascents |
How we researched this
Last checked: 2026-07-30.
Sources reviewed: Encyclopedic sources (Wikipedia, Britannica), climbing tour operators (Mountain Madness, Summit Mountain Guides, Explore-Share), user‑contributed platform (SummitPost), country high points aggregator (countryhighpoints.com), scientific papers (Geomatica), climbing magazines (Gripped, American Alpine Journal), expedition blogs, and YouTube expedition reports.
We did not conduct an on‑site visit, interview climbers, or independently verify expedition costs.
Where is Logan mountain?
Mount Logan sits at the heart of Kluane National Park and Reserve in the southwestern corner of the Yukon Territory, Canada. It lies within the St. Elias Mountains, a coastal range that stretches into Alaska and contains some of the highest peaks on the continent. The mountain’s base is about 15 kilometres from the Alaska border, and the nearest settlement is Haines Junction, roughly 100 km to the east.
Getting to the mountain requires a ski‑plane flight from Silver City or Haines Junction onto the low‑elevation glaciers that surround the massif. According to Summit Mountain Guides, flights land at approximately 2,300 m on the Logan Glacier, from which teams begin their approach.
Mount Logan location in Yukon
The entire massif is contained within Kluane National Park, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The park’s Icefields Mountaineering Warden in Haines Junction issues permits and requires a risk‑assumption declaration for any expedition (SummitPost).
St. Elias Mountains
This range includes the highest coastal mountains on Earth and is known for extreme weather, deep glaciation, and tectonic uplift. The St. Elias Mountains are still rising slowly, which has implications for long‑term height stability (T.A. Loeffler).
Proximity to Alaska border
Mount Logan is only about 15 km from the U.S. border, and its southern slopes drain into Alaska’s Chugach region. This proximity means that rescue coordination involves both Canadian park authorities and occasionally U.S. assets, though logistics are managed primarily from Haines Junction.
The bottom line: Mount Logan is in one of the most remote and protected corners of Canada, requiring a flight for access and thorough permit planning before departure.
What is special about Mount Logan?
Mount Logan is not just Canada’s highest peak—it is also the most massive mountain on Earth by base circumference. Its summit plateau is a sprawling, multi‑peaked dome about 20 kilometres across, with several named summits over 5,500 m, including Summit Peak (5,959 m), West Peak (5,922 m), and East Peak (5,898 m). This immense mass and volume set it apart from other high North American peaks (SummitPost).
“Rising to 5,959 meters (19,551 ft) in elevation, Mount Logan is the second highest peak in North America and is widely considered to be among the most challenging mountaineering experiences in all of Canada.”
— Explore-Share editorial team, Explore-Share
Historically, its elevation was debated for decades. Early 20th‑century surveys produced estimates ranging from 5,950 m to over 6,050 m. The 1992 GPS expedition, published in Geomatica, finally gave a precise measurement of 5,959 m. The same team installed copper benchmarks and collected rock samples for future geodetic work.
Despite its size, fewer than 600 people have climbed Mount Logan. According to Toronto Edition, only about 500–600 climbers have reached the main summit as of recent tallies, with 2015 being a record year with 18 successful ascents. That rarity adds to its mystique.
The massif also hosts some of the most technically demanding climbs in the Americas. The south face, first ascended in May 2010 by a Japanese team via the I-TO route (2,500 m, ED+ M6 WI5), is a serious alpine objective (American Alpine Journal). The Northeast Ridge (Independence Ridge) was first climbed in July 1965 and remains a classic mixed route (AAJ).
The takeaway: Mount Logan is unique for its sheer bulk, historical measurement intrigue, low summit count, and the breadth of climbing difficulty from moderate ski traverses to extreme face routes.
How difficult is Mount Logan?
Even the standard route, the King’s Trench, is considered an advanced ski mountaineering expedition requiring strong skiing skills, glacier travel competence, and crevasse rescue training. Explore-Share emphasises that prior winter camping experience and intermediate to advanced downhill skiing are prerequisites—ice climbing expertise is not necessary for this route.
Technical difficulty
The King’s Trench involves about 3,700 m of elevation gain over roughly 32 km from the ski‑plane landing to the summit. Mountain Madness describes it as non‑technical but serious due to the altitude (summit at 5,959 m), long duration on the mountain (14–21 days), and extreme weather variability.
Required experience
Commercial guiding services universally require previous winter camping in a snow cave or tent, glacier travel seminars, and crevasse rescue experience. Summit Mountain Guides frames it as a “21-day high altitude ski mountaineering expedition” that is best attempted in May and early June.
Weather and conditions
The St. Elias Mountains generate their own weather patterns, with frequent storms, high winds, and extreme cold. Cathy O’Dowd’s 2016 expedition report describes winds strong enough to halt progress for days and temperatures that can drop below -30 °C at higher camps. Failed attempts are common: a widely seen 2022 expedition film documented a team turning around despite excellent preparation due to deteriorating conditions and narrow safety margins (YouTube).
The pattern: Mount Logan is not a technical rock or ice climb by its standard route, but its remoteness, weather, and altitude make it a demanding expedition that even experienced mountaineers may fail to complete.
Mount Logan expedition cost
Commercial guided expeditions to Mount Logan are expensive, reflecting the logistical complexity of ski‑plane access, food and fuel caching, and professional guiding for 20+ days. Explore-Share lists a 20‑day King’s Trench guided climb at about CAD$7,700 per person. Other operators offer similar itineraries but do not publish fixed prices; most require contacting them for a quote.
What costs to expect
- Guided expedition (3 weeks): ~CAD$7,000–8,000 per person (typical guided rate)
- Air taxi (return): Approximately CAD$1,500–2,000 per person from Silver City or Haines Junction
- Park permit: Modest fee, but requires a full expedition application and risk declaration
- Personal gear: Significant if not renting—skis, tent, stove, cold‑weather clothing, crevasse rescue kit
Prices are approximate and based on publicly available 2025 guide service listings. No currency conversion is applied; all figures are in Canadian dollars as cited.
“This 21-day high altitude ski mountaineering expedition is serious and rewarding, it is best done in May and early June.”
— Summit Mountain Guides, Summit Mountain Guides
The trade-off: The high cost buys professional logistics, safety support, and the expertise of guides who know the mountain intimately. Independent climbers can reduce costs significantly but assume all planning and risk themselves—a factor that contributes to the low number of overall ascents.
Our take: Who should climb Mount Logan?
Mount Logan is best suited for experienced climbers and adventurers with strong ski mountaineering skills and previous high‑altitude expedition experience. The King’s Trench is a fitting objective for those who want a long, self‑reliant journey in a pristine wilderness setting and are prepared for the financial and time commitment. For first‑time high‑altitude aspirants, Denali (6,190 m) offers more established infrastructure and a shorter approach window (Toronto Edition). If you are planning an expedition, consider contracting a reputable guide service like Mountain Madness or Summit Mountain Guides early, as slots fill quickly.
Alternatives to Mount Logan
For climbers weighing options, two other high peaks provide useful comparisons:
- Denali (Mount McKinley), Alaska: 6,190 m (231 m taller). The most climbed high peak in North America with established routes, more guide services, and a higher summit count. However, its prominent elevation and cold make it equally challenging, if not more so, in terms of altitude.
- Kilimanjaro, Tanzania: 5,895 m (64 m lower). A non‑technical trek that is far more accessible and has a much higher success rate. Mount Logan is objectively more difficult due to its glacier travel requirements and remote logistics.
- Mount Logan, Washington State (North Cascades): At 2,960 m, this is a completely different mountain, often confused in search results. It is a 4‑day backpacking and third‑class climb, not comparable to the Yukon massif.
When researching, always verify that sources refer to the Yukon peak—check for “St. Elias Mountains” or “Yukon” to avoid confusion.
Map placeholder: Interactive map showing Mount Logan’s location in Kluane National Park, Yukon, relative to Haines Junction and the Alaska border. (Embed a live map from a third‑party provider such as Google Maps or OpenStreetMap.)
Related reading: Joshua Tree National Park: Hiking, Wildlife & Travel Guide � Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise – Guide to Rates, Activities & History
alpinejournal.org.uk, emrlibrary.gov.yk.ca, youtube.com, anugara.net, featheredfriends.com
Frequently Asked Questions about Mount Logan
Where is Mount Logan exactly?
Mount Logan is located in Kluane National Park in the Yukon Territory, Canada, within the St. Elias Mountain Range. It lies about 100 km west of Haines Junction and 15 km from the Alaska border.
How tall is Mount Logan?
The official elevation is 5,959 m (19,551 ft), confirmed by the 1992 GPS survey. It is Canada’s highest mountain and the second highest in North America.
Is Mount Logan taller than Denali?
No. Denali (6,190 m) is 231 m taller than Mount Logan (5,959 m). However, Mount Logan has a larger base and more massive volume.
Is Mount Logan a volcano?
No. Mount Logan is a non‑volcanic uplifted massif formed by tectonic compression along the Pacific and North American plates.
What is the best time to climb Mount Logan?
Most guided expeditions run in May and early June, when snow conditions are more stable and daylight is long. Winter climbs are extremely rare due to severe cold and short days.
Is Mount Logan in the Rockies?
No. Mount Logan is in the St. Elias Mountains, which are a coastal range separate from the Rocky Mountains. The Rockies are hundreds of kilometres to the east.
What mountain is forbidden to climb?
Mount Logan itself is not forbidden, but all climbers must obtain a permit from Kluane National Park and sign a risk‑assumption declaration. There is no known “forbidden” mountain in standard Canadian alpine regulations.
Sources cited
- Geomatica – Logan ’92 GPS elevation survey
- Gripped Magazine – First ascent account
- Explore-Share – Climbing guide and facts
- Mountain Madness – Expedition itinerary
- Summit Mountain Guides – Route and pricing
- T.A. Loeffler – Tectonic uplift blog
- SummitPost – Logan massif and permit details
- American Alpine Journal – South face first ascent
- AAJ – Independence Ridge first ascent
- Cathy O’Dowd – 2016 expedition report
- Toronto Edition – Summit and fatality estimates